Air Conditioner Problems? Check Before You Call a Technician

• Is it actually set to cooling mode? It sounds obvious, but heat and cool get switched by accident on shared remotes.
•  Is the set temperature lower than the room temperature?
•  Are the indoor filters clean? A clogged filter is the single most common cause of weak cooling.
•  Is anything blocking the air inlet or outlet — furniture, curtains, a couch pushed against a wall unit?
•  Is the outdoor unit clear of plants, boxes and debris?
•  Has the breaker tripped at the switchboard?

If the system runs but the air isn't cold, and none of the above helps, it's likely refrigerant, airflow or a component fault. Those need

 proper diagnosis.

Reverse-cycle systems take a minute or two to produce warm air, so give it time before you panic.

 Check the mode, the set temperature and the filters. If it keeps blowing cold, cuts out after a few minutes, or throws a fault code, it

 needs looking at. Cold-weather faults are common on the Peninsula in July — usually defrost cycle issues, blocked drains or a sensor.

 Water where it shouldn't be is the fault most likely to cause real damage, so don't let it run.

 Common causes:

• Blocked condensate drain - the most frequent cause, especially after a dusty summer
• Frozen coil - ice melts and overflows the tray
• Dirty filter - restricts airflow, the coil ices up, water follows
• Disconnected or cracked drain line
• Unit not level - the tray overflows on one side

Turn it off if water is anywhere near a ceiling, wall cavity or power point. That's not a wait-and-see situation.

Some noises are harmless and some mean stop using it. The type of sound usually narrows down where the fault is.

•  Rattling - loose panel, debris in the outdoor unit, worn fan bush
•  Grinding or squealing - fan motor or bearing on the way out
•  Buzzing - electrical: contactor, capacitor, or a loose connection
•  Gurgling - refrigerant or drain line, often harmless, sometimes not
•  Clicking on and off - thermostat, pressure switch or control board

Turn it off if you see smoke, smell burning, or the breaker trips when the system starts. Buzzing plus a burning smell means stop using it

 and call an electrician or technician.

 Modern systems flash an error code when something fails. The code tells a technician where to look - it doesn't mean you need a new system.

Write the code down before you call. On most brands the code clears when you reset the power at the breaker, which is fine to try once.

If it comes back, that's useful information.

Don't open the outdoor unit to chase a code. There's live voltage in there and refrigerant under pressure.

If the air coming out is cold but barely moving:

• Clean or replace the filters
• Check the indoor fan is running at the speed you expect
• Look for crushed or disconnected ductwork in the roof
• Check return air grilles aren't blocked or covered

Ducted systems in older Port Lincoln homes often have sagging or torn duct insulation in the roof space - you get cold air in the ceiling and nothing in the room.

 This one is specific to where we live.

Air conditioners within a few hundred metres of Spencer Gulf cop salt spray on the outdoor coil. Over a few years that salt eats the aluminium fins, airflow drops, the compressor works harder and eventually something gives out.Clean or replace the filters

Signs of salt damage:

• White or powdery corrosion on the outdoor fins
• Fins crumbling when touched
• Rust on the casing, brackets or base pan
• The unit running constantly without keeping up

You can slow it down. Rinse the outdoor coil with low-pressure water a few times a year (power off first), keep the unit off damp ground, and get it serviced before summer. Once the fins are gone, the coil has to be replaced - which is usually when a new system makes more sense.

Call Cool Eyre if your system:

• Doesn't cool or heat after the basic checks
• Leaks water near a ceiling, wall or electrical fitting
• Shows a fault code that keeps returning
• Trips the breaker
• Smells like burning or shows smoke
• Has visible corrosion on the outdoor coil
• Is noisy in a way that's getting worse
• Hasn't been serviced in over two years

Refrigerant work, electrical diagnosis and compressor faults aren't DIY jobs. They need licences, gauges and the right parts - and a bad attempt usually costs more to fix than the original problem.

A proper repair starts with diagnosis, not a guess.

1. Confirm the fault and test the system under load
2. Check pressures, electrical draw and airflow
3. Identify the failed component
4. Quote the repair before doing the work
5. Repair, test and confirm the system is performing

If the fault is major - a dead compressor, a corroded coil on an old unit - we'll tell you straight whether repairing it is money well spent or whether replacement is the better call.

Rough rule of thumb:

• Under 8 years old, single component failure - repair
• Over 10 years old, major component failure - usually replace
• Coil corroded through by salt - usually replace
• Repair cost above half the price of a new system - worth comparing options

We'll give you both numbers so you can decide, rather than pushing one direction.

This page is the guide. For bookings, service areas and refrigeration repairs, head to our main repair page.

Or call 0447 084 015 and tell us what the system is doing.